Monday, April 20, 2009

Building Raised Planter Beds/Gardens

Raised planters are a great solution to any garden. They add dimension to the landscape, solve soil problems, they are higher up so people who have trouble getting down can work in them easier, and the soil does not compact like sregular gardens because it is fresh and much easier to work.

The depth of the raised bed can be anywhere from 8" high on up. Typically, if your soil is hard and compact then you will want a deeper bed so you can control the soil and have a nice workable garden that drains well.

Start with your four posts, panels. These can be boards or garden poles or blocks. Make sure the wood is not treated wood to prevent any chemicals from seeping into your vegetables if it is a vegetable garden. The length is up to you also. You can stack several of the garden poles on the flat edge for a higher bed. If you are using blocks, then stack them as high as you want, typically 2-4 courses. You can also use 4 x 6 and only use one board per side. Nail or screw the lumber into corner posts posts to form the corners of the frame. These are square corner posts that are cut to the height of the bed. Use galvanized nails or screws. Nails are easier and faster, while screws are stronger and more durable.

Dig a small trench 1 to 2" deep where the boards will be places. Position the frame in the trench. Level it by either adding soil or digging a deeper trench.

You can build this right on top of your turf unless it is Bermuda grass or contains weeds. They will break down with the soil. Bermuda Grass needs to be completely removed or pick another area. You will spend all your time removing the Bermuda grass from the bed. Fill the bed high-quality topsoil or other amendments and then rake smooth. I prefer the Miracle Gro moisture soil or the Scott's moisture retaining soil for here in Arizona. They hold in the water and distribute it to the plants roots as they dry out. You will loose less water to evaporation and run-off and save you money in your water bill.

The next step is to install a watering system. Soaker hoses work perfect as they distribute water evenly throughout the container. You can install the soaker hose to your existing plant drip system or purchase a timer that screws into your water faucet outside.

The final step is to add plants. Get creative with plant material and vegetables and have fun. If you want to build your planter with block or are looking for help with your raised planting bed, contact Arizona Living Landscape & Design for help. 480-390-4477 www.LandscapeArizona.com





Friday, April 17, 2009

Pest Control Tidbits - Aphids

Pest Control - Aphids

How do I get rid of those pesky aphids on my trees and flowers? The organic way is to spray with a hard streams of water; add 2 oz. molasses per gallon for better results. I have also read to use dish detergent in the water. Also release ladybugs and lacewings.

I have tried this but have not had much success. I ended up loosing five hibiscus bushes by trying the natural way. I did not use ladybugs and lacewings though. The alternative that worked for me was to purchase a strong chemical from my local nursery and spray the affected plant. This saved my tree and kept the aphids from spreading to my other plants and trees. I intend to get the ladybugs and lacewings and releasing them to prevent future attacks. In the meantime, my Desert Willow is getting ready to bloom and is aphid free.




Arizona Low Desert Spring Crops Planting Guide

Ever wonder what crops to plant when here in the Arizona desert? Our planting guide is very different from everywhere else in the United States. Fortunately, for us we have 2 or even 3 planting cycles. We haver our spring crop, summer crop, and fall/winter crop. It is April in the Arizona low desert and time to get your vegetable garden going before the real heat hits. Below is a guide of what to plant in April in Arizona.

Beans - Blackeye. These perform well in the full summer heat.
Corn - Flour, Ornamental, Popcorn, and Sweet. These need to be planted in April and again in July/August. The supersweet variety needs very war soil to sprout.
Cucumber - Armenian and Standard. Plant in April and again in AugustThe Armenian withstands the heat better then the standard. The standard must be harvested frequently for best quality.
Eggplant - Plant now for best production in the fall.
Melons - Get these in early April. They need rich soil, lots of water and lots of room. Harvest in late July, Aug., and Sept.
Okra - Pick frequently to maintian production.
Peppers - Start indoors in winter for best harvest in fall.
Squash - summer, winter. Pick the summer variety frequently to maintain production. The longer the winter variety is left on the vine, the sweeter.
Sunflowers - Very drought tolerant.
Watermelon - Needs rich soil, lots of water, and lots of room.

Monday, April 6, 2009

Arizona April Garden To Do

Set out transplants of hot-weather annuals, including vinca, salvia, angelonia, verbena, zinnias, and sunflowers. These are easily grown from seed sewn directly in the garden. Soaker hoses can be weaved around the garden beds now. Put them out in the sun to make them more flexible before laying them in the garden. Soaker hoses are an efficient way to irrigate. You will loose less water to evaporation and they can be covered with mulch so you can't see them. Organic mulch will help conserve moisture in the Arizona hot sun and it will also help suppress weeds.

Tuesday, March 24, 2009

Poolside Plants for the Arizona Desert

Here are some perfect pool friendly plants that will flourish in the Arizona summer Heat.


Foxtail Agave - (Agave attenuata)
This is a slow-growing ornamental succulent with bluish-green leaves. It will produce a pale-yellow flower after it reaches 10 years of age and will die after it blooms. The Foxtail Agave will generate offshoots from
the mother that can be transplanted in the yard. This plant will make a bold statement in your landscape and it offers tropical appeal. Agave's do well in our soil and the Foxtail Agave does not have any sharp spines.

The Foxtail Agave does better in light shade to part sun with regular watering in the summer. It will need frost protection in the winter below 30°. It is perfect for containers, borders, rock gardens, or planted in groups.



Twisted Leaf Yucca (Yucca rupicola)
The Twisted Leaf Yucca us a small trunkless plant with olive-green leaves that twist as they age. It produces spikes of creamy white flowers in summer that can grow up to 5 feet tall. The main rosette can reach 2 feet high by 3 feet wide and dies after blooming. It produces several offsets that will regrow. The Twisted Leaf Yucca has eye-catching blooms, has low-water use and is very heat tolerant. It is hardy to -10°. This plant does well in full sun to partial shade in well-draining soil. Remove spent flower stalks. It is great for small spaces, xeriscape gardens and as an accent plant or in pots.



Elephant Food (Portulacaria afra)
This is shrublike succulent with twisted red branches that are lined with green fleshy leaves. It can reach 12 feet tall and wide and produces tiny pink flowers in summer. This plant is a fast grower, drought-tolerant, requires low maintenance, and can easily propagated from cuttings. It requires very little water. It prefers full sun to part shade and needs frost protection. Prune frost-damaged foliage in spring. The Elephant Food is great in containers, can be grown in groups for an informal hedge or can be utilized as screening. It is also perfect for use as a bonsai plant.


Yellow Yucca - (Hesperaloe parviflora ‘Yellow’)
The Yellow Yucca is a clumping perennial that grows to 3 feet tall and wide. Creamy yellow flowers appear late spring through fall on spikes that reach 6 feet high. The blooms are long-lived, the plant is drought-tolerant, cold hardy to -20°; handles reflected heat.
The Yellow Yucca can be planted in full sun. It is tolerant of most soils but must have good drainage. Extra summer watering helps plant develop faster. Remove flower stalks after blooming. It is striking when grown in masses or alongside red-flowering flora. Perfect for xeriscape and cactus gardens. Once established, it requires little or no irrigation. All in all, yellow yucca is one of the toughest and most maintenance-free plants.



Tuesday, February 24, 2009

Early Spring Garden Maintenance

It's time to prepare your garden to transition from the cool-season flowers and plants to the warm-season planting. Pull spend plants and weeds, rake up leaf debris, and layer 4 to 6 inches of compost or manure on top of the soil to dig in before replanting.
Fertilize roses every six weeks to prepare for their major spring bloom period. This starts in April. If you didn't feed your citrus trees in January, then do so now with one third of the trees' total annual nitrogen requirement. Apply nitrogen to deciduous fruit trees when they begin to leaf out. Winter Rye grass needs fertilization once a month. Your bermuda lawn also needs nurishment to prepare for it's spring arrival. Wait to fertilize tropical plants until danger of frost is over. The last frost is usually mid-March. Native plants do not need fertilization. Pinch or snip off spent annual flowers to promote continuous bloom.

When in doubt, contact a local Landscape Contractor for you lawn maintenance or installation.

Sprinkler Irrigation Tip

Every so often you may need to flush out the debris that may have accumulated in your sprinkler system. The debris can be tiny particles of dirt, hard water, lime, etc. All you do is twist off the sprinkler heads and run the water through the system for a couple of minutes. This will clean out all of the dirt/debris that may be in the system and ensure that you have good coverage at all times.